Uganda – A Country of Contrasts

Contrasts 1He was crying and only hours old when he was found beside a sewerage drain and handed to the staff at a Christian babies home for parentless children located in Kampala, Uganda.

Three years have now passed. He has been officially adopted and has a mother, a family of brothers and sisters and attends a kindergarten at Suubi, an area well outside the Kampala suburbs. He runs towards us wearing his school uniform and laughs as he reaches for us to pick him up and give him a cuddle. He is solid for his age.

Life has changed for him now. He has a home, is cared for, loved and will be educated through primary, secondary and even university if that is his choice. He may well be among the future leaders of this country of contrasts called Uganda.

The home we helped build in Uganda
The home we helped build in Uganda

We went to Uganda to build a home that would house eight parentless children and a house mother in a village created for orphan children.  The provision of a house in which parentless children can live in a family environment is just the start.  The house we provided for the family in Uganda became their home and offered the occupants hope for their future.Our daily journey to the building site took us past the mud brick shanties and roadside stalls of suburban Kampala. Here families mostly just survive. Some merely living in hope that they will get their next meal.There are no Government hand-outs, no family allowances, pensions or dole payments. Families band together to pay for food, children’s education and the drugs or pharmaceuticals required should anyone get sick.

Contrasts 3A history of civil unrest, unjust rulers and the HIV virus has left its mark on the city of 2 million people where 78% of the population are under the age of 35 years. It is hard to find any old people.

Yet the population is industrious and vendors sit by their roadside stalls called plots from early morning until often well into the night. Here you can purchase anything from a fried grasshopper to a double bed. Charcoal is used for cooking which guarantees a continuous pall of pollution that hovers over the living quarters and the routes into the city.

Sitting astride the equator, the countryside of Uganda is lush and produces the sweetest pineapples and bananas in the world. The country is becomming a much sort after tourist destination as it boasts two major wild life National Parks where animals can be seen in their natural habitat. The country is now considered ‘safe’ following the end of the reign of terror over many years which was inflicted on the people in the northern areas of Uganda by Joseph Kony and his ‘Lords Army’.

Contrasts 4Homes and educational facilities along with the provision of sustainable projects are being provided by our Australian volunteers. The teams fundraise to pay for all the materials, site works etc. They fund their own costs and are helped by local skilled workers to complete each project. It becomes a labour of love when you realise that, as an individual, you can make a difference in the lives of others.

No matter where you live, you can become involved by helping us fundraise or by applying to join a Humanitarian Projects International team that will be travelling to support humanitarian projects in Australia and overseas.

You can contact us at P. O. Box 1622, Caloundra, Qld 4551

or through email: [email protected]   Our website is: www.humanitarianprojectsinc.com

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Peter Mack

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She Walks in Beauty

He was waiting for her on the very edge of the cloud. He could see her coming in the distance and became nervous like a young groom waiting for his bride to enter the church.

As she approached, she could see him dressed all in white with his youthful vigour and broad smile so evident. She had a quick thought that if she looked close enough she might even see his old motor bike parked close by.

She melted into his outstretched arms. They embraced. She whispered one word – “Johnny”. His reply, “Sweetheart”.

He took her hand and walked with her to help her complete her journey. Together they traversed a pathway covered in rose petals. The further they went, the more evident was the sound of the angelic choir that seemed to be following them.

She also now saw she was once more her young girlish self and she shivered a little as she realised life was beginning again with her Johnny. He, feeling her uncertainness, comforted her with the assurance that there was so much more yet to come and to enjoy together.

Her life flashed before her. The good times, the hard times, the fun, the laughter, the tears and the sorrow. He had also been in this same situation some years earlier and had his mother and father beside him to help and guide him.

He explained to her how being a parent entitled her to so many heavenly benefits. The pain of childbirth, the caring and nurturing roles and the agony of children’s adolescence were but some of the trials faced by parents. In addition there was the constant need to dispense unconditional love, not just to the children, but to their friends and others in the family.

He told her that as a parent you automatically performed these tasks out of love and that tended to have a neutralising effect on any negative actions that might have clouded her conscience.

She was happy now, worry and pain free. She was with her Johnny and together they walked toward the Kingdom of the Most High and the everlasting love and joy that awaited them both.

I’m Peter Mack and that’s how it is.

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A Retail Experience

It’s not often you get to meet a bloke like Dave.  He is one of those rare people you find in the retail industry who is prepared to provide a service to customers that could be considered well and truly above the norm.

 We had decided to get away for a few days and camp in a bush setting just outside a little country town.  The site was ideal and all went well until evening when we found our gas lantern would only produce an orange glow instead of its usual bright light.

 Like all good campers we carried a spare, but to our surprise this produced a similar effect.  Testing proved the gas cylinders were working fine so we were left to enjoy the evening lit only by the flickering of the camp fire.  While this was romantic, a stronger light would have been usefull in trying to find a thing or two.

 The next morning we took our lamps into town to see if there was any way of returning them to their original operational brilliance.  It was at the small hardware store we met Dave.

  He listened to our little saga and took us out to his storeroom which doubled as a workshop and staff lunch room.  He removed the little jets which had become clogged and for the next half hour he poked and prodded, blew and sucked, in order to clear these very fine gas inlets.

 He explained how he had experienced a similar situation while camping and was only too pleased to try and resolve our problem.

 Dave would accept no payment for his work and was genuinely happy just to have helped us.

Outwardly, I can’t see how, in this small country town, Dave will ever receive the riches of his big city hardware counterparts.  But, inwardly, I believe Dave has a heart of gold.

 I’m Peter Mack and that’s the way it is.

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Travel – The Gibb River Road

(This is the continuation of the DARWIN to BROOME & BACK story)

 

P1030672Originally built for large road trains transporting cattle from isolated stations to the ports of Derby and Wyndham, The Gibb River Road is an alternative route across The Kimberley to the Great Northern Highway.

It is unsealed for almost the entire length, 665km, from Derby to the junction of the great Northern Highway between Wyndham and Kununurra. The best time to travel the road is from April to November, once the creek levels have dropped and before the wet season starts. We travelled the road from West to East.

 

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                                                      If you come to grief in the Top End it can prove to be a very expensive exercise

Before arriving in Derby we stopped off to see the Boab Prison Tree, an overnight detention spot used by police in the early days when transporting prisoners to court.

The tree was also used by settlers connected with the pearling industry. They were referred to as ‘blackbirders’ who kidnapped young Aboriginal men to work as divers and workers on the pearling boats.

Early pastoralists helped the blackbirders because they thought that removing the young men would guarantee peaceful behaviour from the older ones left behind. The Aboriginal people resisted.

One story of Aboriginal resistance is told about Jandamarra who, as a police black tracker, was known as pidgeon. He helped some of his people from the Bunuba tribe escape and was involved in the killing of a number of people including a police officer. He was hunted down and we followed his trail from Derby to Winjana Gorge National Park and the caves of Tunnel Creek.

DERBY

The first European to visit King Sound, on which Derby is situated was William Dampier in 1688. But the pastoral industry wasn’t established in the area until 1879.

Today Derby has a large Aboriginal population and is renown for its 12 metre tidal range, the second largest in the world.

While no longer a cattle port, it is used by the mining industry to load ore onto tenders which transport their load to large ships out at sea.

 

 

                                             One of the longest cattle water troughs I have ever seen is in this area.

                        

LARRKARDIY AND JILKARR
Larrkardiy, boab trees, and Jilkarr, termite mounds, are outstanding and enduring features of Indigenous belief and practice in The Kimberley.

WINJANA GORGE NATIONAL PARK

                     

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The park consists of a 3.5km long Gorge formed by the Leonard River as it carves its way through the limestone of the Napier Range. The park is of international geological significance as it forms part of an extensive fossilized barrier reef from the Devonian times some 360 million years ago.

In 1894 the Aboriginal freedom fighter, Jandamarra and his followers armed with stolen guns attacked a party of 5 cattlemen killing 3 of them at Winjana Gorge. Jandamarra, who I see as the Aboriginal version of our Ned Kelly, staked out here to confront a police possee of 30 men. He was seriously wounded but continued his fight to defend his land and his people.

TUNNEL CREEK NATIONAL PARK

35 kms from Winjana Gorge, this park allowed us to explore a creek with permanent pools of fresh water as it tunnels through the limestone of the Napier Range.
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We were warned that freshwater crocodiles sometimes inhabit the spring-fed pools within the tunnel. We were told they are not considered dangerous if you leave them alone. Armed with a decent torch each, we were determined to explore the mystical tunnel with or without its crocs.

The Tunnel was once known as the ‘cave of bats’ as it houses at least 5 bat species including the Ghost Bat, Australia’s only carnivorous bat. So the thinking was, if the crocs wouldn’t get us the bats might. Still we pressed on and we were so glad we did.

Inside the Tunnel it was as if you could feel a spiritual presence. This was an Aboriginal sacred site which I believe we were privileged to have been allowed to visit.

Aboriginal freedom fighter, Jandamarra and his followers avoided police and others for nearly 3 years using Tunnel Creek as a hideout. It was here at the entrance to the tunnel that Jandamarra was killed on 1st April 1897.

THE MITCHELL PLATEAU

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Ngauwudu is the name Wunambal Aboriginal people give to the Mitchell Plateau area in the far north Kimberley. It is located 350 kms north east of Derby and 270 kms north west of Wyndham by air.

We accessed it via a rough 4WD track from the Kalumburu Road, 172 kms north of the Gibb River Road junction.

The area contains a variety of plant life in mangroves, swamps, woodlands and even lush rainforest patches. Quite noticeable are the large palms (livistona eastonii) which can grow up to 18 metres tall and can be up to 280 years old.

The Mitchell Falls area was not explored by Europeans until 1921. William Easton led a State government expedition into the north Kimberley, naming the Mitchell River after Sir James Mitchell,, the then Premier of Western Australia.

On the way we called into a number of swimming locations at Bells Gorge, Galvan’s Gorge and Manning Gorge.

EL QUESTRO WILDERNESS PARK

Around 120 kms west of Kununurra and only 16 kms off the Gibb River Road is El Questro, a private pastoral lease and what I believe is an oasis in The Kimberley.

It is considered one of the world’s most unique holiday resorts with accommodation ranging from tent camp sites to a $1,700 per night home.

The grass was lush, the water was plentiful and the beer was cold.

Helicoptors will fly you around the area to view spectacular gorges such as Emma, El Questro, and Amalia or you can go in your own 4WD to these places and more.

We visited Chamberlain Gorge and a ranger took us through the Gorge by boat and explained its features. We were fortunate enough to find a little rock wallaby up in one of the rock openings.

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We also lay in the thermal pools at Zebedee Springs and relished the warmth of the crocodile free water while all around us were naturally growing lush tropical palms.

We found heaven in The Kimberley.

ABORIGINAL ROCK ART IN THE KIMBERLEY

Aboriginal people believe that Gulingi and Wunggurr creators travelled the land making the earth, the seas, mountains, rivers, waterholes and all living things.

Gulingi are associated with regeneration, creation of rain, renewal of resources and continuation of life. Gulingi left themselves throughout the region as landscape features and distinctive cave paintings.

Wunggurr are creator snakes. Their winding travels through the country with Gulingi made the rivers. Many came from the seas, and now reside in deep pools and waterholes.

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BRADSHAW ART

Named after its founder. The art form is more African than Australian Aboriginal. The local indigenous tribes do not accept it as Aboriginal art and as can be seen above have on many occasions painted over it with their own designs.

It is still not known how it got where it is or for that matter who the artist(s) were.

 

The first part of this story is called ‘DARWIN to BROOME & BACK’.  Read this part…

Peter Mack

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Travel – Darwin to Broome and Back

– A TOP END ADVENTURE –

We all arrived in Darwin from different directions. Some by air from Queensland, others overland via Kakado, a couple from Tasmania and one from the USA.

Most of us were unsure what adventures lay ahead but we were excited at the prospect of exploring The Kimberly and other remote areas in the top part of our huge continent.

P1030631Some of us had travelled together the previous year to Cape York with our Heritage Tour driver, Jim. We had enjoyed ourselves and learned so much we decided to ‘saddle-up’ with Jim again for more fun and adventures.

Darwin, considered the most cosmopolitan city in Australia, can also claim to be the most modern. It was virtually rebuilt following the devastation wrecked by Cyclone Tracey in 1974. The architecture is indicative of the tropical climate and the pace of life is slower than that experienced in other Australian capital cities.

Departure morning and the 4WD Heritage bus gradually filled as Jim collected his passengers from various accommodation locations around Darwin. With introductions completed and old friendships renewed, we headed out of the city. The journey had begun.

An initial surprise for us was to meet the lovely Mel, Jim’s travelling companion. In the days that followed we were to learn that Mel had a great sense of humour, was great company, an excellent cook and a real support to Jim.

P1030421True to form, Jim announced he had completely changed our scheduled itinerary. The looks of concern on the faces of those who had not travelled with him before were neutralised by the smiles on the faces of those who had. For we knew we would only gain from any changes or enhancements Jim might incorporate into our trip.

Heading south west from Katherine we spent our first night camped beside Victoria River. The early morning sunrise and the brilliance of the sun on the layered rock escarpment behind the camp was our first indication of the spectacular scenery we were to experience as we travelled further into The Kimberly.

As we crossed the West Australian/Northern Territory border and assured the border guards we were not carrying any cane toads, our day became one and a half hours longer. Dinner that night was at the Kunnannara Hotel.

The days that followed all brought their own high level of interest, discovery and adventure. The group moulded into a team of happy campers where everyone pitched in and helped with the daily chores. We came to realise names of places that had existed only in our minds from what we had learned at school or heard on the odd news report were thriving communities.

A helicopter flight over the Bungle Bungles was awe inspiring. The towns of Halls Creek, Fitzroy Crossing and the natural beauty of Geike Gorge were all a wonderful part of our camping adventure. 

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We had become quite adept at pitching and dismantling our tents, washing and drying dishes and sleeping in the bush. Neither cold showers nor the long days of bumpy roads and river crossings failed to dampen our enthusiasm. However, we received a pleasant surprise when we reached Broome.

Three nights in the Mangrove Resort Hotel complete with pool, spa, breakfast in a dining room and even room service and TV. This was a welcome contrast from our days on the road.

While in Broome we learned how the pearl industry had played such an important role in the town’s history. Some of us visited Willie Creek and saw at first hand how cultured pearls are grown. Some went canoeing while others took the opportunity to wash the red dust from our clothes. Some revelled at the delights of engaging in retail therapy while there was always the pool around which to laze, enjoy the sunshine and read a book.

Some might claim the highlight of the stay in Broome was being able to watch Queensland win the first in the 2007 State of Origin series on Television. Generally, the lasting memory we will all take away with us was the evening we had dinner on Cable Beach while watching the sunset.

We ate prawns and other delights and drank champagne as a camel train slowly made its way along the water’s edge silhouetted against the brilliance of the setting sun. The silky convergence of the yellows, oranges and reds surrounded us as the heavens celebrated the end of another beautiful day.

Cable Camels 2

 After Broome it was back on the road and the camping experience continued. We revelled in the beauty of Winjana Gorge, the haunting spectacle of Tunnel Creek and the wonder of finding rock art in places of special aboriginal significance. The Mitchell Plateau with its walks and waterfalls preceded our arrival at El Questro, a haven in the Kimberley wonderland. We bathed in the healing waters of Zeberdee Springs and Capt’n Dave took us on a cruise through the magnificent Chamberlain George. The journey from Broome back to Darwin is documented in the story entitled, ‘Travel – The Gibb River Road’.                                                         

After a day of sightseeing and driving along some of the most difficult roads in Australia, we were always surprised by the quality and variety of our evening meals. Our second last night at El Questro had to be seen as a culinary spectacular. Jim, our driver, cooked roast lamb and vegetables in his camp ovens on an open fire. This was the most delicious meal and we awarded Jim and Mel C.F.C. (Camp Fire Cooks) medals for outstanding culinary achievements.

In the evenings we chatted, sang songs, played games such as the trivia night, passed spoons to each other in a hilarious game where the position of one’s knees dictated the outcome. We laughed a lot, especially when Mel introduced us to the ‘ hanging orange beer can bash’.

P1030194This was a trip that incorporated an opportunity to see some of the most spectacular scenery in this vast country of ours. Jim was able to speak with knowledge about Northern Australian flora and fauna. He took us to visit numerous sites of historical significance and related fascinating stories from the past.

Each day delighted us with a variety of experiences and adventures. It gave us a chance to appreciate the trials and hardships suffered by the early explorers and allowed us to marvel at what was once the nomadic lifestyle of the aboriginal tribes in the areas we visited.

The Kimberley is truly a place of wondrous beauty and deserves to be visited by all who claim to love our country and its inspirational history.

GEIKIE GORGE, Western Australia

Geikie Gorge is located within the traditional country of the Bunaba People. who have lived in the Fitzroy Valley for 30,000 – 40,000 years.

The gorge was formed by the Fitzroy River as it carved its way through part of the Devonian Reef. Today the reef is a distinctive feature of The Kimberley. This limestone range stands high above the surrounding savannah woodland where it was uplifted as the sea retreated many millions of years ago.

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 DARWIN’S OCEAN VIEWS HIDE ITS HISTORY

The shimmering surface of Darwin Harbour hides the remains of ships sunk during the Japanese air raids on Darwin. These wrecks are memorials to the bravery of those who died, and the courage of those who risked their lives to rescue survivors.

Harbour

Shortly before 9.00 am on the 19th February 1942 a strike force of 188 Japanese aircraft was launched from 4 aircraft carriers located midway between Darwin and Timor.

P1020545Darwin was caught unprepared when the first bombs fell destroying a section of the main wharf and killing 22 waterside workers. In the next 20 minutes the planes sank or disabled 21 ships, destroyed most of the waterfriont facilities and wrecked much of the town area.

Two hours later a second force of 54 bombers attacked and severely damaged theP1020564 Darwin RAAF base. At least 290 people were killed and hundreds wounded during the 2 raids.

The Japanese went on to attack Darwin and the Top End of Australia on 64 occasions until 12th November 1943.

Government House was bombed and repeatedly strafed during the first air raid.

Nearby where Government House stands today 9 people were killed when a 450 kilogram bomb fell directly into a trench in which Post Office staff were sheltering.

The first raids on Darwin initially shocked Australia. However, the true magnitude of the destruction was initially censored. A dramatic build up of defence personnel in the area saw more than 60,000 based in the Territory by late 1942.

 

VICTORIA RIVER, N.T. – A great place at which to wake up and explore

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GREGORY’S TREE – A silent witness of our heritage.

Located beside the Victoria River, Gregory’s Tree marks the main campsite of the first European land exploration of the region.

The expedition party, which included Augustus Gregory and 17 other members used the campsite for nine months. Still clearly inscribed on the tree trunk are the dates of the party’s arrival and departure.

In 1855-56 Gregory and his party undertook an extensive survey of the Victoria River Region before returning to Brisbane. During this task information was gathered that greatly added to the scientific and general knowledge of the young Australian colonies.

Gregory’s reports on the potential use of this area for grazing had few positive comments. However, they were enough to suggest that there was potential for large profits to be made. Within a few years of his return the land had been divided into properties and stocked with cattle.

 

BROOME, W.A. – The home of Australia’s cultured pearl industry

Over the centuries many attempts have been made to produce a man-made pearl, but Nature has guarded her secret jealously.

It was not until the 1920’s that Kokichi Mickimoto and his collegues succedded in cracking the code. They discovered the technique for introducing an acceptable surrogate nucleus into a mother oyster.

Methods gradually improved and quality cultured pearls now compare favourably with Nature’s own and can be produced in a shorter time and in greatly improved numbers.

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If a foreign particle, such as a grain of sand, becomes lodged inside an oysterand if the shellfish cannot eject the particle, it proceeds to cover the irritant with layers of a substance called nacre.

This nacre hardens, thus acting as a barrier between itself and the oyster. It is this that eventually develops into a pearl.

P1030119While in Broome we visited the Willie Creek Pearl Farm and learned how the now famous famous South Sea pearls are produced from the silver, or gold lip, oyster Pinctada Maxima. As the name suggests, this species is the largest pearl producing oyster in the world growing up to 30cm in diameter and weighing up to 5 kilos.

This string of pearls is worth a cool $40,000
This string of pearls is worth a cool $40,000

Broome has become famous for its moon bright pearls and Mother of Pearl for more than 100 years. In particular the South Sea, or Australian Pearl, is revered internationally for its size, colour and lustrous complexion.

To cultivate a pearl, the mother oyster is first brought up from its marine environment. It is gently opened and kept open with woooden wedges.

A sliver of mantle tisue is removed from another oyster of the same species. A tiny slice of the mantle, together with a minute orblet, is inserted into the soft tissue of the mother oyster. The mother oyster is then returned to the sea in a retrievable cradle.

The whole procedure is extremely delicate. Speed and precision are essential and even the most skilled technicians, working with surgical instruments can expect only a small success rate.

An experienced technician can command high fees and is paid a large bonus for every pearl he causes to grow.

 

SUNRISE IN BROOME Western Australia

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 PLACES OF INTEREST

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(a)  Christ Church Cathedral Darwin.  The front section is part of the first Church of England in the Northern Territory

(b)  During the 2nd world war the Northern Australian railway saw up to 147 trains operating each week. This exibit was at the Pine Creek Station

(c)  The original homestead at the Springvale Heritage Park

(d) Public phone box at Drysdale River Station

 

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(a) Fitzroy River Lodge

(b) The old Post Office at Fitzroy River Crossing

(c) The beach at Broome

(d) Wall art in Derby

FLORA FROM THE TOP END  

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 Peter Mack

 This story continues under the title ‘THE GIBB RIVER ROAD’.       Read the story…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Travel – Wearin’ of the Green

We could tell she was Irish by her greeting as she sat beside me on the aeroplane at Heathrow. We were about to fly to Ireland as part of our first big overseas adventure.

As the plane started to taxi toward the runway she gripped my hand and I could feel the sweat on her palm. The look on her face and her mumbled explanation told us she was scared of flying.

Crossing the Channel her grip remained steadfast and was only released when she jumped up to be first to exit as the plane came to a halt at Dublin Airport. This was our introduction to Ireland and its people.

Hiring a car at the airport, we decided to travel south. We were sightseeing, but we were also keen to learn more about the country’s history, its culture and its people.

We would stop at little towns and call into a pub which we soon discovered to be the local unofficial ‘Information Centre’.

After ordering two half pints of Guinness one of the locals at the bar would invariably ask us where we were from.

This started a conversation that would enlighten us about where we were and where we were heading on the next leg of our journey.

As we entered a small town where we found bunting and flags down the main street, we soon learned how the Irish love to celebrate. In this case they were celebrating the anniversary of a battle that had been fought and lost in the town during ‘The Troubles’. It seems the Irish never won many battles so they celebrate the ones they lost. 

We stayed at B & B’s and generally selected the ones well off the main roads. Here we met so many wonderful people who genuinely made us feel welcome and treated us as part of the family. We found the Irish love Australians and love to talk about our politics and our football.

On one occasion we asked directions from a policeman. He leant his arm along the car window ledge and chatted on, seemingly with no regard for the line of cars behind us waiting for us to move. He finished by saying he had a brother in Sydney and did we know him?

Saturday night in the local pub is the place to go to enjoy ‘the craic’. It was on one of these occasions where a local farmer and his wife had befriended us that we learnt an important lesson.

As the evening wore on, the whisky and the Guinness flowed freely and the ambient noise level increased accordingly. The farmer put his arm around my shoulder and slurred “Pete, thars sumptin’ yer need to know”.

I looked at his slightly blurry face, for all the half pints were beginning to have their effect on me as well. “Pete” he said, “real men drink pints”. He then gave me a wink and a nod to be sure I understood his drift. Since then, I have only ever ordered a Guinness by the pint.

It was midnight and the band were playing but the dancing, the laughter and the talking stopped as everyone rose to their feet. This was the Irish National Anthem and here were its people, hands on their hearts, some even with tears in their eyes, in a show of National fervour, the extent of which we had never experienced, not even at an AFL football grand final. In the South they truly believe that the English will be driven out of Northern Ireland some day and Ireland will once again be united.

While on the subject of football, we were in Donegal where we learnt that the Aussies were to play the Irish that day in Dublin in what has become an annual event. The teams play a game that is governed by a combination of rules from both the Aussie game and the Gaelic football game. Being Aussies on Irish soil meant we just had to go to support our team.

The locals could not understand how we would drive all the way from Donegal to Dublin, a distance of around 240 km, just for a football game. It seems just travelling out of their County is considered a journey only undertaken in extreme circumstances. The locals just shook their heads at the oddness of these Aussies.

We met some Australian friends who had travelled over from London to watch the game. We all bought some green and gold scarves to cheer on our team and joined the local Irish supporters in a nearby pub for a few nips to warm us up before the start of the match.

After the game started, it soon became obvious that the local supporters were more interested in the physical clashes than watching the players exhibit the skills that were on display in the fast, play-on style of game, we were watching.

Leading up to half time there still hadn’t been a fight and the locals were egging on their players to throw a fist or three. As the siren went for the half time interval, what the crowd had wanted, happened. There was an all-in brawl on the field and this brought everyone to their feet. There was cheering, yelling and laughter. Blood had been spilt. The crowd was happy.

They were not so happy when the Aussies came from behind in the last minute of play to snatch a slender victory. All went quiet in the stands and with looks of disdain at our green and gold scarves, they spilled towards the exits and the local pubs. Here, we thought they would probably drink on well into the evening, for this was yet another Irish defeat in battle that needed to be celebrated.

We ventured into Northern Ireland and our first impressions were that the English had invested a fortune in infrastructure, roads and services and we could not envisage them leaving in a hurry.

We felt our visit to Belfast would have been pointless unless we visited the Falls Road and Shankhill Road area. While we had been warned against lingering too long in this flashpoint area, I wanted to photograph the wall murals I had read so much about.

With my wife driving and me and with the passenger window down and the camera at the ready, I got a few photos. I complained my concerned driver was travelling too fast and I missed a shot that I wanted. I asked her to take the next turn to the left. This accomplished, I reasoned we could easily ‘go around the block’. It wasn’t to be that easy as we ended up outside a building whose bold signposting left us in no doubt we were in front of the Loyal Orange Lodge.

The people on the street outside were giving us what could only be described as dirty looks and my driver was shouting at me to hide the camera and put the map on the dashboard so they would obviously recognise us as tourists. I don’t think the Dublin number plates on our car helped the situation either. Without hesitation, my would-be Formula 1 driver accelerated and wouldn’t stop, or even slow down at what I considered interesting photo opportunities, until we were well away from the area.

A quick glance at the map showed us we needed to travel in a north-easterly direction, past the Belfast airport to get to see the wonders of the north coast. With me in the navigator’s seat, still a bit cheesed about the missed photos, I just pointed to the arrows showing ‘To the Airport’ and directed my still ‘hot under the collar’ driver in that direction.

It soon became obvious that the sun does not set in the north-east, even though we were in Ireland. Checking the map, we found there are two airports that service Belfast, one in the north-east and one in the west. The navigator had done it again! My suggestion that we do a ‘youee’ across the concrete median strip of the freeway on which we were driving was treated with a string of invective that I felt could well have had something to do with the commencement of divorce proceedings.

My wife, Ursula’s maiden name was ‘Murphy’ and one of the aims of our visit was to attempt to trace her ancestry. Even though every town seems to have a pub called Murphy’s and every third person you meet also carries the name, we were fortunate in tracking down her side of the family to a little town called Kilfenora in County Clare.

It is exciting to look at land that has only a heap of stones on it and realise that this was where her ancestors lived many years ago.

Ireland was wonderful. The scenery is rugged and beautiful and the people are so warm and friendly. We found evidence still in existence of the early civilisations and the history surrounding the many castle ruins we explored is fascinating. Given the opportunity, we would return anytime to continue our travels around this fascinating country as 18 days was only sufficient time to whet our appetite.

IRISH PHOTO SCRAPBOOK

                 

It’s upside down…..                                                      Cobh, County Cork –

but that’s the way it’s done!                                      Last port of call for the Titanic

 

      

County Cork –                          Co.Kerry-                                        Killorglin-

Blarney Castle                        Where the little people cross      My ancestral home?

           

County Cork – Mizen Peninsula                        County Kerry – Dingle Peninsula

         

County Clare – Cliffs of Moher                            County Clare – Dolmen

          

County Galway – Cleggan                                 County Galway – Aughrus More

        

County Galway –                                                 County Galway –

Connemara National Park                                 Lough Inagh

 

       

County Galway –                    County Meath –                  St. Patrick lit a fire

Kylemore Castle                       Hill of Slane                       for Christianity

 

     

Where the Mountains of Mourne                   Country Antrim

come down to the sea                                     Giant’s Causway

 

       

County Antrim –                        County Donegal –              County Donegal –

Ballintroy                                     Fintown                                Countryside

 

        

County Antrim – Dunluce Castle                      County Cavan – Virginia

Peter mack

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Travel – The Summit

The SummitWe arose early and drove to the base of Mount Warning. We had allowed ourselves a few hours to climb to the top where, we had been reliably informed, the view of the sunrise was spectacular.

Because of its height and location close to the eastern most point of Australia we were going to be the first in the country to see the sunrise that morning. So, as you can imagine, we were excited at the prospect ahead of us.

It was hard going on the winding slippery track, with only torchlight to aid our progress. Along the way we saw ample evidence of the presence of the nocturnal animals who had used our track during the night in their search for food. We heard rustlings in the bush beside us as our presence disturbed the late night fossickers on their way back to their daytime sleeping quarters.

We stumbled and slipped a few times but because we were looking forward to what awaited us at the summit, we kept up a steady pace to ensure we would arrive on time.

Upon reaching our goal, we were so disappointed for we found the top of the mountain shrouded in cloud. It even started to rain and it wasn’t only our spirits that were dampened. – There was no spectacular sunrise for us that morning.

Life tends to be like that at times doesn’t it? We learn to cope with disappointments and not all our expectations can ever be realised. However, like our trip up and down the mountain, the experience and the exercise was good for us.

Peter Mack

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Travel – MACLEAN The Scottish Town in Australia

 

Nestled beside the Clarence River, inland from the Northern NSW coastal town of Yamba, is the colorful Celtic township of Maclean. The promotional brochures refer to the town as “The Scottish Town in Australia”.

We travelled to this special part of Australia along with friends and relatives because our son and his fiancé had chosen this area as the place in which they wanted to be married.

Driving towards Maclean from the highway is an extremely pleasant experience. The road is bordered on the right by the picturesque Clarence River and on the left by the gently swaying fields of sugar cane.

P1020414The first indication one gets that this area has a uniqueness of its own is the appearance of painted power poles. The lower sections are painted in different tartan colours and have the Clan name in large white lettering for all to admire. These brightly coloured poles are not just a welcoming town entrance gimmick in the main street; they are a feature of many of the streets around the whole town.

The area obtains its character because it was originally settled by Scots following the Highland Clearances of the 1850’s. Australia offered free or assisted passages to immigrants and many Scottish settlers were attracted by the offer. They settled in Maclean and today many of their descendants still live in the area.

Maclean has its own fishing fleet that tie up opposite the town in the Clarence River. Fresh prawns and seafood are available at the town’s restaurants, hotels and at the local fish co-operative. Also in the area is Australia’s oldest working sugar mill along with the only sugar refinery in New South Wales.

River Street contains most of the major businesses in the town and many of these are located in beautifully restored heritage buildings. Another classic feature of the town is that many of the street signs contain the name in both English and Gaelic. 

I spoke with some Maclean High School students who were wearing the Maclean Hunting Tartan as part of their uniform. They were proud of the Scottish connection the school has with the local area and told me their school song was sung to the tune of ‘Scotland the Brave’.

A walk around the town is not complete without a visit to ‘The Scottish Shop’ which is staffed by volunteers. Here you can purchase all manner of Scottish and local souvenirs which also include pre-loved kilts.

The shop assistant was only too willing to point out on a local map many of the town’s special attractions. One of these was the Cairn dedicated to the contribution Scottish settlers had made to the area.

The Cairn is located in Stanford Park and contains stones brought in from Scotland.  Around the base are hand painted tiles showing many of the Scottish Clan coats of arms.

I was informed Maclean really comes to life each Easter when the annual Highland Gathering is held. There is a street parade, which of course includes numerous pipe bands from all over Australia. There are competitions for the bands, individual pipers, drummers and highland dancers. Highland sports are also a feature of the weekend where participants putt the shot, toss the caber and throw the hammer.

My volunteer at The Scottish Shop also told me of the “Kirkin’ The Tartan” celebration held on July 1st each year. It seems that Scots all over the world celebrate on this day the Wearing of the Tartan which the British had originally forbade. The Scots all come together to celebrate the lifting of the law and to have their Tartan blessed.

Having a surname of Mack is about as close as I can get to having a Scottish heritage. But after spending sometime in Maclean and the surrounding area and chatting to some of the local residents, I can now understand why many Australians with a Scottish family background choose this very special town in which to exchange their wedding vows.

Saint Mary’s Catholic Church is on a hill that overlooks the town of Maclean. It is an imposing structure made from local sandstone back in the 1890’s. The parish priest, Father Fitzwilliam, is a warm, caring man who loves the town and his church.

Maclean has an individual character unlike many other towns in Australia. The residents have preserved many of its heritage sites and have included attractive additions, such as the colorfully painted Tartan power poles.

In a country where white settlement history only goes back 200 years, it is refreshing to visit a town with a unique character like Maclean.

P1020395        P1020396            P1020398  P1020394

P1020397        P1020389            403 croppedP1020406

 

 Peter Mack

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Travel – An Awesome Experience

Awesome 3Awesome is a word used quite liberally these days to describe almost any type of experience or happening. But from now on I have vowed to use the word sparingly.

Mt Yasur is an active volcano located at the Eastern end of Vanuatu’s Tanna Island. To reach the mountain requires a torturous two and a half hour drive through the jungle in a 4WD vehicle where low ratio first gear is the choice for much of the journey.

Awesome 4From a distance you can see the mountain blowing out clouds of what appears to be smoke and steam. As you approach closer, the jungle changes to a moonscape of lava, ash and boulders.

At one point on the mountain you can actually drive to within 200 metres of the volcano lip. Although it is a difficult trek, the steep climb to the rim through the soft ash is well worth the effort. When you reach the top and peer down into the crater through the haze of sulphurous gases and ash filled dark clouds, you can start to gauge the enormity of where you are.

You choose your location to ensure you have the wind blowing from behind you to protect yourself as best you can from the gases and the occasional flying rocks.

Awesome 5Here is Mother Earth groaning, moaning and exploding as she releases pressure from deep within her molten core. There are bubbling sounds from her bowels that give way to eruptions every few minutes. These shake the unsteady ground you stand on.

As night falls the eruptions explode within a bright red fiery curtain that provides you with a natural fireworks display like no other you have ever seen. Blazing red rocks fly from the molten melting pot to drop on the landscape around the crater. The spitting lava then drops back into the bubbling cauldron where it waits for the next eruption to once again vomit its contents skywards.

Now this whole scene I can honestly describe as AWESOME!

Peter Mack.

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Travel – A Call to the Cape

The TipAs a young bloke I recall having a large map of Australia on the wall of my bedroom. Into this I stuck drawing pins indicating places to which I wanted to travel. One of those pins was at the very top of Cape York and it is only now I am much older that I have been able to complete this life-long dream.

My wife and I chose a 12 day, 4WD camping tour that left from Cairns. Along with 11 other passengers we headed north, crossed the Daintree River, called into Cape Tribulation and travelled along the Bloomfield Track to historic Cooktown.

Old Telegraph St 2Our journey continued along Battle Camp Road, so called because of the battles waged between the local aborigines and the European and Chinese gold seekers in the area. Once onto the Peninsula Developmental Road we experienced some difficult road conditions and swollen water crossings due to a recent cyclone that had hit the area. The old Musgrave Telegraph Station still had one of the original timber telegraph poles standing near the front gate.

Coen, for many years the northern most town in Queensland, has an interesting museum depicting its history and the stories of the early settlers. We crossed the Archer River and went to Weipa where we viewed some of the mining operations surrounding the world’s largest deposits of bauxite.

Quad ridersReturning to the Old Telegraph Road we travelled north stopping to examine what was left of the old Batavia mining site and helped pull some bogged motorists from one of the many creek crossings. We watched and cheered as a group of quad riders attempted the Cockatoo Creek crossing.

On many occasions we left the ‘main road’ to explore rainforests and hidden waterfall locations. Some of these tracks were designed purely to give Telstra riggers access to service communications towers. Fruit Bat Falls and Twin Falls gave us the opportunity to swim without fear of being taken by crocodiles.

We crossed the Jardine River on the ferry, examined some World War 2 plane wrecks and drove into Bamaga where we joined the locals at the Seisa Fishing Club and watched some Interstate football on the television out on the back grass. The telecast was on relay from Darwin.

Thursday IsFrom this location we took a ferry to Thursday Island and Horn Island. At these Islands we learnt of the sacrifices of both Aussies and Torres Strait Islanders during the early days of discovery and settlement.

Frang BayThe next day we drove north from Bamaga the 33kms to Frangipani Bay, passing the beginning of the Great Dividing Range and had to clamour over rocks for about half a kilometre to reach our destination, the tip of the Cape. Here we celebrated with some bubbly and numerous photos.

On our return we detoured to what little is left of the old town of Somerset and learned the history of the Jardine Family and the importance of this location as the first port of call for ships in the Torres Strait visiting Northern Queensland. We also were told of the ill fated Kennedy Expedition which set out from Cardwell in 1848. This was the first group to explore the Cape York area and was dogged by sickness and continual battles with the aborigines. Only with considerable courage was the group’s black tracker, Jackie Jackie, able to complete the journey and reach the top of the Cape.

We flew out of Bamaga and returned to Cairns.  This trip provided us with a history lesson, adventure, excitement and a better understanding and appreciation of the Australian bush.

Horseshoe bay        Fungus             Plane wreck  The road

Peter Mack.

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